Parsnip Cakes – 1903

“These do not taste of parsnips at all, and can be found still in the little country farms or cottages. Boil 3 parsnips until tender, mash and press through a sieve, mix in proportions of 1 teacupful to 1 quart of hot milk, 1/2 pint of yeast, some salt, and flour to make a stiff batter. Cover, set in a warm place, and when risen to twice its size, knead into flat cakes, very thin. These must rise again and be baked until brown. Can be eaten with butter, like crumpets or scones, or with gravy, like Yorkshire pudding, with a roast of meat.” – With a Saucepan over the Sea, 1903

I get a strange seasonal hankering for parsnips once the snow starts to fly. It’s been happening for years, I think, since I first purchased some for early recipe testing of historical recipes. I watch with bemusement as they slide down the conveyor to the cashier, who puzzles over them for a moment before asking what they are. When I say, “Parsnips!” I see a little light go off in their heads, and more often than not, they say something like, “Oh, my grandmother used to cook with those!” I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had this interaction, but it’s a lot.I’ve had this recipe earmarked for several years now, since I first picked up the cookbook where I found it. It’s listed in the section for Cakes, Puddings, and Pastry, although I’d shelve them under Breads and Buns. They are lightly flavored, and completely delicious smeared with a little salted butter. The consistency is something like potato bread, slightly dense but just puffy enough. They could almost serve as burger buns, if not flattened so fully before baking.The original directions left a little to be desired when it came to clarification, so it took a little trial and error to get a dough that did what it was supposed to. As such, be warned that the amount of flour is… flexible. You’re aiming for a dough that is cohesive enough to be kneaded, so adjust accordingly!I will say, though, that I’d have to agree with the original book that these would be equally tasty with just butter as a side to a roast. I think the recipe is incredibly adaptable, and one could swap the parsnips for pumpkin, yam, potato, carrot, beet, etc. for the parsnips. As the original is written, our modern instant yeast would likely have been swapped for a sourdough starter, which would add some extra awesomeness if you have some of that kicking around. Me? I’m focused at the moment on just keeping my two kids alive and fed, so starters and houseplants will have to wait…

Recipe for Parsnip Cakes

Makes: about a dozen – Prep: 45 minutes – Rising: 1.5 hours

Chelsea’s Notes: Don’t be tempted to go with the whole 1 lb. bag of parsnips, if that’s what you’ve purchased; it makes way, way too much dough! Don’t ask me how I know… ALSO! If you have large parsnips, I strongly encourage you to cut out the woody, pithy center of them before chopping, which will dramatically decrease the bitterness and leave you with just tasty sweet rooty goodness.Ingredients:

• 3 parsnips, peeled and chopped (see note above)
• 1 quart warm milk to each cup mash
• 2 tsp. yeast
• generous pinch of salt
• enough flour (about 5+ cups, but adjust as needed!)

Add the chopped parsnips to a pot of boiling water, and boil for roughly 10-15 minutes, or until tender. Strain and add the parsnips to a large mixing bowl. Mash, measure, and add milk (it should be about 4 cups). If you’d like a smoother texture, and like me kind of really hate cleaning up sieves, I suggest using an immersion blender to blend the mixture at this point. When you have a consistency you like, add the yeast and salt, then start mixing in the flour until you have a dough that can be kneaded. Knead for a few minutes, then cover and let rise for about an hour, until doubled in size.Punch down, divide, and roll into 12 equal balls. With floured hands, form each into flat discs no bigger than about 1/2″ high and arrange on baking sheets. Turn on the oven to 350F and let the buns rise again while the oven heats. Once up to temperature, bake for about 20 minutes, until golden brown. Best enjoyed same day, and especially while still warm from the oven!