“The wedding feast began with a thin leek soup, followed by a salad of green beans, onions, and beets, river pike poached in almond milk, mounds of mashed turnips that were cold before they reached the table, jellied calves’ brains, and a leche of stringy beef.” (Storm of Swords)
Jellied Calves’ Brains
Our Thoughts:
Yes, we said we wouldn’t be making this dish.But I couldn’t help myself when I saw the lonely package in the freezer at Savenor’s labeled “Half Veal Brain”. It had to be done. So I dived in, probably more enthusiastically than is normal.
The final product is nothing short of decadent. When working with brains, it’s important to remember that they essentially have no flavor, although their texture is delightfully creamy and rich. Which is why the flavor of the aspic and the Montpellier butter becomes important. I implore you, if you are brave enough to try this, not to skimp on your stock preparation. It provides the lion’s share of flavor in the dish and allows the other components to shine.
Eaten by the spoonful, or spread on toast, the brain aspic delightfully exceeded our expectations. The saltiness of the butter is balanced by the creamy texture of the brain, and unified by the familiar flavor, if not texture, of the stock. Certainly not for the faint of heart, more for the culinarily daring, this side dish is steeped in history and an adventure to both create and consume.
Jellied Calves’ Brains Recipe
Calf’s Brains in Jelly – Put some jelly into a plain round mould, and set it in ice; as soon as the jelly is well set, turn it on the table-dish, which must be placed over pounded ice; put on the jelly a whole calf’s brain, cover it entirely with iced Montpelier butter; on this lay three more brains boiled very white; ornament the top with pieces of jelly, and garnish your dish with a border of jelly or coloured butter, and serve. -The Cook’s Dictionary, and House-Keeper’s Directory, 1830
Montpelier Butter-
Ingredients:
- 1 cup butter, room temperature
- 3 anchovy fillets, rinsed and chopped
- 2 gherkins, chopped
- 2 shallots, chopped
- 1 clove of garlic, chopped
- 3 egg yolks, hard boiled
- 1/2 cup parsley
- 1/2 cup dill
- 1/3 cup spinach
Aspic-
Ingredients:
- 2 split trotters
- 1/2 market bunch parsley
- 1/2 market bunch dill
- 1 turnip, quartered
- 1 parsnip
- 1 carrot
- 1 onion, quartered
- 3 egg whites and their crushed shells
Put all ingredients, except the eggs, into a large stockpot, and cover with water. Put over medium-high heat and allow stock to simmer for up to 4 hours. Remove from heat, drain through sieve, and refrigerate overnight.
Skim fat layer off. To clarify the stock, whisk the egg whites till they are foam, fold in the crushed shells, and stir into the cold stock. Slowly allow stock to come to a simmer. Do not stir. When the egg whites form a raft on the surface of the stock, create a two inch hole in the middle. Simmer with raft for 15 minutes, then remove from heat. Cool for 10 minutes and strain through a sieve by pushing aside the raft and ladling out the broth. Allow the clarified stock to simmer till the liquid volume is about 1/4 of the original.
To test if your aspic will maintain its shape, spoon a bit onto a saucer and place in the freezer. If after 10 minutes the liquid has gelled, it it ready to use. If you are worried about it not keeping shape, you can add gelatin or agar agar.
Brains-
Ingredients:
- 1/2 calves brain
Rinse the brain in cold water. Bring a saucepan of salted water to boil and quickly poach the brains till they turn a grey-white. Remove with a slotted spoon and set on a towel to firm up. Once firm, slice thinly with a very sharp knife.
To assemble-
This recipe will make 4 small, or one larger aspic. Allow your aspic stock to cool till just before it gels, and ladle the first thin layer into the mold. Wait for the first layer to harden, and layer on thin slices of Montpelier butter. Add another layer of aspic, and a layer of brain in the same manner. Continue till your mold is filled. If the aspic is taking a long time to gel, you can place your mold in a bowl of ice to accelerate the process. Allow to set in the refrigerator for two hours before removing form the mold and serving with toast.
Fortunately, my lifelong avoidance of anything beef or pork lets me off the hook on this one….But I admire your courage!
OMG, I’m sooo going to cook this, if only for Montpelier Butter.
Your aspic ‘wedding cake’ mold makes for a delightful table presentation, but I have to pass on the contents. Brain is just a bit too adventurous for me. Just let me stick to a plain, simple, ol’ tomato aspic. I do admire your palate though and enjoy most of your dishes. (Your Elizabethan Buns were a Thanksgiving hit!) Looking forward to the cookbook!
This is actually a common Swedish Julbord (Christmas smorgasboard) dish. It’s called kalvsylta.
Hey, I thought it looked familiar. You’re telling me there’s brain in kalvsylta? I’ve missed out on pretending to be a zombie all these years? Aw!
Nice haha.
And kalvsylta is delicious. I might try this. :O
Organ meats – like sweetbreads or brains – frequently have really a nice texture, and can tast wonderful (pâté and foie gras are technically organ meat dishes). I’m just surprised you can buy bovine brain for consumption, what with Mad Cow/BSE issues over the past decade.
I’ll stick with liver and pancreas for my twice-a-decade dip into that cholesterol-laden pool ;)
I, too, admire your courage. I cannot say that I have ever had the slightest inclination to eat brains in any way, shape or form. Having said that, I must also say that I’m sure they are probably good, for those who like them. So many other recipes listed on this site have been wonderful and there are many more I am still looking forward to trying when I am able. Thanks for a wonderful site and some mouth-watering recipes.
I’ve been thinking of making a savory aspic; It’s so out of fashion I’ve never had it before, but old cookbooks have tons of recipes. For the stock, the trotters are pig’s feet? I guess cows don’t have “trotters”, and I’ve only seen pig (and chicken) feet for sale.
Right you are!
honestly I wish I had the courage to eat something like this but I don’t!!!
I woke up last Sunday, buried deep in the ground, and as I clawed my way to the surface, groaning, I realised I hadn’t checked this blog for quite a while.
Once I’d smashed my way through a large, low-lying window and had eaten the dwelling’s resident, I was amazed to find that there is a recipe here that caters perfectly to my new dietary needs. Perhaps there is no need to ambush the local old ladies and suck out their succulent brains after all! Undeath is good. :)
Just to add a little something : Montpellier is a french city and is spelled with two L ^^
It doesn’t make me hungry but I must say your picture is great, you made a beautiful dish :)
I’ve been contemplating holding a Red Wedding style dinner-party for a while. This looks like a lot of work, I wonder how many people would actually try it! Weird thing is, I think I’d have more of an issue with the aspic here rather than the brains – I have issues with jelly texture, sets off my gag reflex.
I’ve spent the past two days actually making this. A quick back-story: after a disastrous episode in which I was charged with bringing that lime/walnut/cottage cheese Jell-O abomination to my family’s Thanksgiving dinner, it became a tradition for me to bring REALLY BAD aspics every year. Only I try to make them only SOUND bad. Coconut curry was surprisingly awesome. I do not recommend lamb with feta. In the end, it doesn’t matter; each and every member of my family is REQUIRED to try the Jell-O. It’s affirmed tradition. (A decision that was not mine.)
I’ve been threatening to bring Jellied Calves’ Brains for nearly two years, since I stumbled across this recipe while preparing to host a GoT party. (By the by, the acorn squash and spiced wine recipes here are AMAZING.) This year, I actually got around to ordering the brains from my local butcher in time.
My only regret is that there wasn’t really time to ask you guys for help when things went awry (and they did!) so I have some feedback in case anyone else ever feels compelled to do this crazy thing.
On the butter: Gherkins was confusing, and there’s conflicting information about what the term actually means depending on location and recipe. A small cucumber? A savory pickle? A sweet one? I initially bought tiny cucumbers, then later decided (using the egg yolks and my Southern American potato-salad-eating upbringing as a qualifier) that pickles were the way to go. Bread and butter chips were all I had on hand, so I went with that, about 1/8 cup or so, pre-dicing. Based on the color of the butter in the picture, you really have to pack your herbs into the cup to achieve the proper measurements. I used an entire Living Herbs bunch of fresh dill (2 oz package) and the other half of the “market bunch” of parsley not used in the stock. The spinach I initially eyeballed–a good, lightly squeezed handful, surely 1/3 cup. After blanching and squeezing the water out through a paper towel, I had maybe 2 tbsp of herbs, which, after blending in the food processor, wasn’t enough to make the butter nearly as green as what’s in the image above. I blanched another 1/3 cup spinach (it was the only greenery I had left), tightly packed, and it still wasn’t that green, but I am impatient, so I went with it. Were I more patient, I would have doubled all the herbs, the same way I instinctively doubled the garlic. Consider your mold when you make your log and size it accordingly. I also ended up having a LOT more butter than I needed, by an easy half. Also also, anchovies are disgusting. I used them, but good grief, they are disgusting to handle.
On the aspic: I couldn’t decide if “2 split trotters” meant two feet, split, or two of the split pieces of a foot. I went with two feet, split, because that’s what came in the package, and I sure as heck wasn’t going to use them for anything else. Ever. Parsnips are amazing, though, and I will be using them much more often in the future, thanks to this happy discovery. The recipe says to quarter the onion and the turnip, but says nothing of the other veggies. After some research, I determined that the internet consensus agrees more surface area=more flavor, and since the recipe says not to skimp on the stock, this seemed reasonable. I chopped all the vegetables into roughly 1″ pieces, onion and turnip included. (I used a very large Vidalia onion, for the curious.) The initial smell was amazing. By the end of the four hours, I was very, very done with the sharp pungency. After straining (wow, that was an experience!), I let it cool a bit before putting it into the fridge overnight. The next day, when I went to skim off the layer of fat, I found I’d already made gelatin. The whole thing was congealed through. Undaunted, I scraped off the top, lighter, fatty layer and let the pot sit out. It remained gelatinous. I put it on the burner for a moment to get enough heat into it to liquidate the mass without heating it, whisking regularly. When it was liquid once more, but still cool, I added the frothed egg whites and shells. (Why the shells? I cannot figure that out for the life of me.) Note: WHISK! COMPLETELY! I had no idea what I was doing here, so I just whisked for a moment, staring at the foamy white mess on top of my stock and wondering what the heck a raft was, then set it back on the burner. Well. My mistake. Read up on making consommé BEFORE you try this raft business. I had something like a meringue on top once the stock began to simmer, then the steam made its own hole, and it was bigger than two inches. Then the eggs went wild, taking up half my stock pot, while my stock was all down there in the bottom, completely inaccessible. There was no ladling to be had. After some bemusement and some skeptical prodding, I chucked the whole mess through a double-mesh sieve. The pan is going to be a disaster to clean, but what I had at that point was about 1 3/4 cups stock that was relatively clear. Reducing wasn’t an option if I was going to have enough, but since I knew it would already form a gelatin, I didn’t worry about it and set the stock aside.
NOW LISTEN UP! All of the non-Swedish comments up until now have talked about the dubious adventure of brains. The brains are fine. Worry about the pig feet before you worry about the brains. I, who was so doubtful, ended up putting the leftover boiled brains in my freezer, and I’m going to sauté them up with something delicious, or maybe fry them. If you can boil pigs’ feet for four hours, you’re going to have no problem with the brains.
On the brains: I bought “veal brains.” And I forgot to rinse them. I say “forgot.” What I mean is, despite the trotters, I went apoplectic at the thought of touching brains, so I just opened the package and dumped the whole mess into my boiling water. I thought I’d purchased a single brain–it certainly looked like one long brain in the package, vaguely calf-skull-shaped–or so I reasoned–but evidently I purchased five. They’re teeny little things, smaller than my fist. They’re actually kind of cute. But how grey is grey? No idea. I looked it up, and it seems 12-15 minutes at full boil is enough if you intend to sauté veal brains, so I boiled them for eighteen minutes and then let them cool on butcher paper. (They kept trying to stick to the paper towels.) Cooked, they’re no more threatening than chicken legs, but slicing them was interesting. They’re so fatty! A truly sharp knife really is imperative to keep from squishing them. Because I was trying to keep the slices thin and uniform, and using only the tidiest-looking brain pieces, I was really wasteful and still only went through two of my five brains.
On the assembly: Slice thinner than you think you need to. Choose a mold that doesn’t have scalloped edges. Keep your aspic in a relatively warm area of the kitchen so it stays liquidy, then transfer your mold to the freezer to chill between layers.
Tomorrow my family eats brains, for the first time in any of our lives. I’d like to thank the Inn at the Crossroads for helping me to both repulse and, hopefully, pleasantly surprise my loved ones. We’ll see. I’m still having visions of trotters. I’ll let you guys know how it turns out, though. Much appreciation regardless–it can’t be worse than lamb and feta. You guys are awesome.
Cheers!
Well. No one liked it. SURPRISE! But everyone did try it, and the feedback is as follows:
The consistency of the aspic is decidedly different from what you’d expect to get if you added gelatin–lighter–although it held its shape nicely. It was more delicate, and jigglier. Had I any intention of doing this over again (which I do not), I think I would add gelatin. It also lacked, much to my surprise, flavor. How is that possible? I used such a big parsnip! A HUGE onion! I chunked all my vegetables! I suspect not reducing the stock is to blame, but again, I’d been left with so little to work with. So make lots! And maybe throw in some pepper corns and a dash of salt. In the spirit of honesty, if someone had me at sword-point and said “Make it again or die!” I would add beef bouillon.
The butter had a strange, fluffy smoothness that family agreed detracted from the dish–almost a whipped texture, and having used the food processor to homogenize the ingredients, this may very well be the case. Using the sieve method might produce a more pleasing density. A heavy butter with more herbs would have made a considerable difference, and while the recipe describes the butter as “salty,” I did not find it to be so. Adding more sardines could be of benefit, maybe two–and again, a dash of salt.
And as for the brains, well, again, they’re the least of your worries. Between the weak aspic and the fluffy butter, the brains were more of an afterthought, a vehicle for the IDEA of bizarre Jell-O, and hard-pressed to be the prevailing keynote. Although they made my sister gag, much to everyone’s uproarious approval, she was gagging well before she got the sliver of aspic-topped, toasted baguette anywhere near her mouth, so I hardly think that counts as a valid critique. No one else noticed them as anything beyond conceptual.
The dish is, overall, mild. It’s the texture that’s likely to offend, and not the flavor. I was kind of disappointed. I think it’s fairly obvious that the problems I ran into along the way urged me to make some recipe changes, but they were by and large changes that should have added flavor, not sapped it.
In the end, I hope someone else will make this, and report back with their personal results. It’s a truly novel idea, and absolutely fascinating–a plunge into culinary alchemy the likes of which so few people undertake. I really did learn a lot throughout the process. Thanks again, guys! It’s been an adventure!
Pescetarian, but I may try out that butter, as a topper for fish or something . . . hmmmm.