“‘Conte, I do believe Master Fehrwight has just requested nothing less than a ginger scald.’
Conte moved adroitly to fill this request, first selecting a tall crystal wine flute, into which he poured two fingers of purest Camorri ginger oil, the color of scorched cinnamon. To this he added a sizable splash of milky pear brandy, followed by a transparent heavy liquor called ajento, which was actually a cooking wine flavored with radishes. When this cocktail was mixed, Conte wrapped a wet towel around the fingers of his left hand and reached for a covered brazier smoldering to the side of the liquor cabinet. He withdrew a slender metal rod, glowing orange-red at the tip, and plunged it into the cocktail; there was an audible hiss and a small puff of spicy steam. Once the rod was stanched, Conte stirred the drink briskly and precisely three times, then presented it to Locke on a thin silver tray.”
-The Lies of Locke Lamora, by Scott Lynch
Ginger Scald, vodka, ginger syrup, and pear brandy
Thoughts:
This, dear readers, took some doing. After several months of on and off trial and error, I ended up with two versions, neither of which was really satisfactory, to my standards. So there they languished, in the draft post. Until one evening, when I opened the post back up, scrapped both those recipes, and came up with the one you find here. I was especially driven to finish the post because, after tweeting about the difficulties of finding a hot poker, a package arrived in the mail from Andrew Cairns at Willowdale Forge with two such accessories. Finding myself thus enabled, how could I not follow through?
The breakdown:
The thick sugary syrup sticks to one’s lips and tongue, the concentrated ginger burning pleasantly. I tried several versions of a ginger oil, but they were, at best, completely unappetizing. Hence, the ginger syrup swap, the texture of which, I think, closely mirrors how a ginger oil would behave on the palate.
I hemmed and hawed over the pear brandy. It’s described in the book as being “milky”, but I’ve never seen such a creature. I did a few experiments to see if I could come up with a way to milkify my pear brandy, but the end results were not worth the effort, and moreover, detracted from the cocktail as a whole.
The last ingredient was also somewhat troublesome. It seems to me that it cannot be both a liquor and a cooking wine. Given the cocktail nature of the beast, I opted for liquor. Mind you, I also tried a radish-infused white wine (BLECH!), but it left a great deal to be desired. Instead, I’ve decided to go for vodka: it’s clear, and made from roots (potatoes). If you like, you can infuse the vodka with some sliced radish, but trust me when I say to go sparingly. Pretty much, let the vodka look at a radish, and that will be enough (or possibly too much…).
The end result is a decadent, ethereal cocktail that will knock your socks off. If you’ve scalded it, the cocktail will still be warm from the poker, and that physical heat transitions into the burning flavor of the ginger. Adding to that theme is the slight tone of burned sugar, while the pear flavor is much complimented by the ginger, and the vodka gives it an extra boost of intoxication.
It was described by my tastetesters as “exquisite”, “otherworldly”, “exotic”, and “amazeballs”. All in all, it’s just complex enough to be special, without being impossible to make.
Ginger Scald Recipe
Ingredients:
- Ginger Syrup (see below)
- Pear Brandy (if you’d like to make it)
- vodka
Follow the written directions:
Into a champagne flute, pour about two fingers worth of ginger syrup. Follow this with a good splash of pear brandy, then a finger or so of vodka.
Stir the mixture vigorously to get the sugar up from the bottom; you’ll be able to see it swirl around as you stir. The top photo settled while I was shooting: Do as I say, not as I do! Once it’s mixed, you can sear it with the hot poker. See the note at the bottom on the crazy danger of hot pokers.
Ginger Syrup Ingredients:
- 2 cups roughly chopped fresh ginger
- 2 cups sugar
- 6 cups water
Combine ingredients in a saucepan, and place over medium heat. Allow to simmer for about an hour, at which point much of the liquid should have boiled off, and the remainder be a nice cinnamon sort of color. Let the mixture cool (nobody likes sugary burns!), then strain into a glass jar. It will keep for several weeks, and makes enough for around 10-12 cocktails.
Caution on handling Hot Metal
*Note* If you are planning to singe the cocktail with a hot poker, I really can’t stress enough the importance of being careful. If you let the poker touch the side of the champagne flute, it could explode. If you yourself touch the hot poker, you will be scalded. Also, do not do as Conte did, and wrap a wet towel around the poker- the moisture will translate the heat straight into your hand. Instead, use a heavy-duty oven mitt. Lastly, be warned that the cocktail will sputter, hiss, and jump all around, so keep a steady hand when you first plunge the poker into the drink. And please remember, friends don’t let drunk friends play with hot pokers…
Like this recipe? Check out the other recipes from the Gentlemen Bastards series!
I would probably stanch the poker in a clay or metal vessel then pour over into a flute to serve…
I’m amazed and flattered by the level of work you put into this… I don’t think I can take any of the credit for the results at all, since none of the ingredients I described turned out to have any sort of real world analog. ;)
I am profoundly embarrassed by the wet cloth mistake. When that scene was written I had not yet been through firefighter training and my knowledge of thermal properties would appear to have been craptastic!
So you hadn’t a real world thing in mind when writing the passage?
This looks lovely. I want to try it.
Time to forward this to everyone from the readalongs, as we all kept talking about how we wanted to try all of the drinks in Scott Lynch’s world… :D
I’m so glad you stuck to it….the final recipe looks very appealing. I adore ginger.
This looks brilliant! and do-able! thank you!
I’ve got one of those tubes of “freshly chopped ginger” in the fridge, can I use that to make the syup, or do you think that wouldn’t be fresh enough?
This could probably be used as a cold remedy as well, as Vodka kills just about everything, and ginger is good for when your stomach feels yucky.
The tube Ginger could work, but you’d be safer going with fresh. You can just chop it roughly, and it should do the trick. :)
A good fresh ginger trick, by the way–store it in the freezer and grate it on a microplane. It grates more finely, and stays fresh for months.
“Friends don’t let drunk friends play with hot pokers.”
Yep, never thought I’d hear that one!
Sounds delicious. Never thought of that…
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Surely you could get the pear brandy “milky” by chilling it- the oils inherent in any brandy with decent legs should precipitate and turn it cloudy when it gets cold, in much the same way that whisky that isn’t chill-filtered will do so if served on the rocks
Interesting idea! I’ll have to give that a go.
I’ve always thought that Sambuca would be closer to Ajento- it’s much heaver than a vodka, and the anise flavour might substitute for radishes well. It might even take an infusion of radishes better than a wine. An Italian Grappa might be similar…
Oh, curious thought! I’m not a big fan of anise, but might have to try that combo. For science and all… ;)
Amazing, I can’t wait to try making this next “Feast Night”!. Question though, i’ve seen other cocktails that use a hot poker, and was wondering what you wound up using and where I could find one? Was it usable in a kitchen setting?
You know, I actually found a blacksmith on Twitter who made a couple for me. Hoping to use them for some colonial drinks this Thanksgiving! If you could find some large Middle Eastern style kebab skewers, those might serve in a pinch.
Although not transparent, I how Cynar would work in place of vodka as the ‘ajento’?